Mirror mirror on the wall, I am my mother after all……

Mirror mirror on the wall, I am my mother after all……

Hello, and sorry mum…..

OK, so quite a gap since my last post. I have been sewing, but also having a very sore neck and back, lots of pain, lots of tightness, so quite slow sewing and taking it a bit easier. (NB: this has NOTHING to do with the Giro de Italia)

There are 2 finished things to show you below, the blog title come from my thought process…..

Not long until holidays now for me, very excited, sewing clothes to wear. “Oh”, I thought, “I really need a dark blue denim skirt” (I picked up the fabric in Ditto), I turned around, saw the blue jersey, “oh, that will be great for a top and will make a nice outfit for my holiday”…. dear readers, I froze in time the moment I had used the outfit word……..my mum has finally broken through….

So, admitting defeat, I bought both and went home to cry and put any remaining vestiges of youth in a vac bag under the bed….(yes, middle age hit hard that day).

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I had previously spoken of being brave and bold with jersey, I ended up broken with a failed tolie in the bin and a very clear idea of how not to make a jersey top. The pattern for this started out as the same dress in project 2, Burda 7828. I lengthened the bodice and sleeve by 1 inch and the hem by 3 inches and shortened the sleeves. I really like the the cross-over look, and again stitched a modesty panel otherwise there was too much bust on show. Most of this was over locked, which was just lovely

The skirt was also a Burda pattern, 7531 which I have made before but never with the central inverted pleat made. Photo was taken after a long day at work (if you are reading this for good photo’s I fear you have left by now, I am wearing make up at least, or was when I left the house that morning)

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I like the inverted pleat and am think of another skirt with a completely contrasting colour for the pleat. The pattern is a good fit and dare I say, easy to make.

I’m off to rest my neck and pray that France has better weather……

sarah

xxxx

2 tops for the blog of one

2 tops for the blog of one

Hello again,

After last time’s confession that I usually post a bit after completion to allow a wear and check the garment. Well today is breaking with that, I have just finished and am having a catch up blog before I get started on the next things.

2 tops have been finished, both short sleeved (looming French holiday), I am hoping that I will need short sleeve tops, but based on current weather I have also bought a new waterproof, drought indeed!  *mutters to self about government and met office conspiracy*.

The first top is a Amy Butler Lotus dress, made as a the short top (it may be referred to as a Cami) with sleeves, I must have sleeves for bingo wing arms.

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I really like the style and fit and this design and have made the pattern before, I’ve made 2 changes to the pattern, by adding an inch to the front panel to limit the “Bavarian Waitress” look this can have, and the original pattern has a button closure at the back, I have used a zip, I usually get dressed before the rest of the family is awake, so I’m not sure how I would actually get dressed in the morning.

The fabric choice was partly driven by the blue satin bias binding I had in my stash and I like the pattern of the fabric with the contrasting panels. Fabric was from one of my local shops, The Patchwork Dog and basket in Lewes, which is Quilting Heaven, they sell a huge range of beautiful printed cottons.

I don’t usually wear light colours and looking at the photo, I’m not convinced this is the most flattering colour (I am genetically Scottish with dark hair, pale skin) and in the past have had to return things with disappointment as I just looked washed out (known at home as the “Whistles suit” incident).

There was a large amount of hand stitching the bias binding in place, this made my oddly happy (Suze thinks I am mental) and I have lined this with some white muslin. I really like the top, and am going to persevere with the colour and see.

PPG was £23,70 which includes, cotton fabric, lining and zip, bias binding and thread from stash. This took 7 hours, which included making lining and a large amount of hand stitching.

 

Literally, I have just finished my next top.

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This is the Sorbetto pattern in Georgette. A slight pattern variation in that I didn’t put the full pleat in down the front, I have moved the pleat to the inside and only anchored it at the top.  I also increased the sleeve width and made some gathers so that the sleeve falls nicely. I think the fabric is very suited to this and have made a little note in my book. Overall, top is a bit more flowing and definitely looks better tucked in than left out.  The neck has some black stain bias binding (again hand stitched, what is wrong with me? I have to make 40 things this year, I don’t have time for hand finishing!)

Anyway, This took about 4 hours, and PPG was £4.50, fabric was a remnant from C&H fabrics and I only needed 1 metre, even with the sleeves (1metre, I am going to be all over the remnant stalls in fabric shops!) and some bias binding. Oddly enough, I have a lot of black thread in the house.

So *deep exhale* next, I need to re-thread my over locker. (Suze has advised setting the machine up next to the telly and pausing the DVD step by step, yes, readers, it’s so fiddly that you get a DVD to watch).

I bought some black jersey and am going to be brave, bold and other B words (Mr Sarah thinks bloody minded) and actually make something in jersey using the over locker.

Wish me well………………..

Sarahx

Tales of poor fabric choice….

Tales of poor fabric choice….

Hi,

I am a bit behind with the blogging, I confess that I usually only post once some thing has been worn to test; fit all day ( not just a quick try on in front of the mirror), does it work, is it comfortable etc., I finished this over a week ago and am now playing catch up, a very busy week for me.

Last week I finished a dress – come on down number 12!

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This was a free pattern from April’s “Sew” magazine. A simplicity Project Runway K2588.

A toile was made for fit and adjustments made, it came together really easily and I am happy to report that I used my new over-locker *happy face* to finish all the seams (where have you been all my life). Dress finished, tried on and I had made the bust enlargement slightly too big in that ,the bust on my dress were a good 3 cms further out on each side than my actual bust, and obviously dear reader, I only found this out once I had put the zip in. There was a large amount of muttering and I had to unpick swathes of both over-locking and stitching to remedy this. The other flaw in my plan was that I made the lining separately, so in all, this dress took a long time to finish. Although, for me the joy is in the making not the rushing. The lining was made from some e deep purple linen shearing I picked up on a market stall.

The final embellishment and I will take a better photo for next time, (you can’t see very well in the photo here, the dress is currently in the washing machine), is that I made a rosette and stitched this to the front waistband. The pattern offered a series of tabs, belts and bows, but none of these were right for me. I’ll show this separately in future here.

So, I really need to talk about fabric choice. I like this fabric,I bought it as I liked the stripes, but it is cotton. Dear reader, I need to move on, this is a great dress pattern, but cotton does not do it justice and creases badly which detracts from the overall dress look. (the noise you can here is Suze “Step away from the cotton”) I like the design and am likely to make this again, but maybe in a nice crepe or wool for winter

Dress took about 17 hours (including toile, unpicking large swathes and make the lining separately. I also hand stitched all the lining as as I decided didn’t want any top-stitching showing.

Cost was £7.99 a metre for fabric (from the Stitchery, my lovely local fabric and swing shop), £3.50 a meter for lining, 3 of each, plus 1.20 for a zip. I already had thread in my stash. Total of £35.67.

 

See you soon

Sarah x

 

What I learned from the first 10 and going forward

What I learned from the first 10 and going forward

Hi,

So, I made it, 10 things made by the end of March, I am feeling reasonably optimistic that I will actually make 40 this year, but must keep going. I did find it all a bit of a challenge at time to keep going. My “free time” is limited (I work full-time and have 2 children,who want me to spend time with them!), and there were some evenings when I did have to make myself crack on with sewing. These are the main things I have found out;

1. I am allergic to metallic zips and when they are side zips and which finish near your arm pit, I get really quite a nasty rash. This means side zips will need to become back zips……

2. I am not as uncreative as I had previously thought (see coat)

3. I still really hate having my photograph taken

4. I am getting better at pattern altering to fit my body shape

5. Everyone is very supportive and encouraging

So onto the next 10 (I had discussed with Suze that I would try to break this down into 10 per quarter as opposed to 40 a year, otherwise my head hurt). The other things I have realised is that there are some things I want to make and “have a a go” at, machine embroidery for 1, but these are likely to become napkins rather than a garment, so I am going to have to be a bit more flexible about my free choices.

In terms of getting a sneak preview of the next few projects and how I’ll be getting along, Spring is upon us and I really need some short sleeve tops, this neatly co-insides with the upcoming family holiday, so there are likely to be a few of these. I am a massive cycling fan, and when the Tour de France is on, nothing gets done (neglected children, ready meals and take away’s, untidy house) whilst I watch men in Lycra toil round the scenic parts of France on bicycles, so I need to get ahead on sewing terms to build up the time to do this.

 

So, away we go; the next project I’ve completed is a Sorbetto top. This is a free down from the really lovely Collette patterns http://www.coletterie.com/colette-patterns-news/free-pattern-to-download-the-sorbetto-top. I did take some inspiration from the 7 days of Sorbetto http://www.sewweekly.com/2011/07/7-days-of-sorbetto/ from the rather lovely Sew Weekly website http://www.sewweekly.com , and Claire from Sew,Incidentally had created a sleeve http://sew-incidentally.blogspot.co.uk/2011/08/sleeve-pattern-for-sorbetto-top.html

Thanks to all of the above for your inspiration and sharing.

I have bought some brushed cotton from C&H fabrics earlier on and have used this.

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This was very simple and very quick to make. The hardest part was turning the A4 paper into a pattern. I had added a small details in 3 covered buttons near the neckline (I promise I will wear make up in the photos from now on). I would like to try this in a range of fabric and try different embellishments, I like the flowing finished  and the “unfitted” design, although I may work on making the neckline a little smaller, it does feel a bit “gapey” to me.

Facts and figures, This took about 4 hours (including making the pattern), Fabric was £12, with 3 buttons to cover, £1. I had the thread in my stash. so a total of £13.

Right-oh, on with the next…..

 

See you soon

Sarah

xxxxxxx

Project 10. How to make your daughter happy? make another pink dress

Project 10. How to make your daughter happy? make another pink dress

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The smile on Isobel’s face suggests she really likes the dress. It’s the same pattern as I made her previous one from, without the collar. Isobel had also pickled some “spotty buttons” to match the “spotty material”. I actually think this looks nicer without the collar and second time around making this pattern meant I was able to concentrate on finishing. There is more top stitching and the lining is much neater and finished.

In other news, it was my birthday recently and my lovely family clubbed together and I am now a proud owner of; an over-locker, pattern master, several lovely sewing books and some more fabric. So watch this space for neatened seams!

Sarah

My Labour of Love (and I love it)

My Labour of Love (and I love it)

Hi,

Sarah here, so, like Suze I have been busy sewing, but not blogging enough about it, is this common?

so, Ta Da!!!! (drum roll and fanfare), I have finished my rather lovely coat and whilst it was a real labour of love, photo’s and comments below, I can honestly say that I loved every minute of it, there are a LOT of photos.

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This is the finished item, Mr Sarah isn’t about and this is my “free night” to catch up. The coat fabric is boiled wool, in bottle green, not quite felt, but not standard wool either and rather nice to work with; it gathered well, was easy to work with, no pulling or stretching and  no problem in the sewing machine. The lining is satin and not so lovely to work with as it frays like northing I’ve ever seen, (at 1 point I had to even stop thinking about it in case it made it fray more!).

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The top stitching in orange crochet cotton (double thread) was all done by hand, I measured every stitch, 1cm with 1 mm variance (train-spotter voice in play) to keep them even. The buttons were covered by hand, (see earlier post). The cuffs (top photo) were lined and added to the sleeve with my lovely hand covered buttons and when the coat is done up, give the only “flash” of colour and hint to the lining.

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There is similar detailing on the back.

The next photo shows the collar which I am really pleased with and shows off the effort I put into finishing this well.

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and finally a photo of the inside, I really really love the lining (this is effusive for me), I hand stitched the inside facing to the lining all the way round, which takes me to the maths aspect;

The cost of the fabric and notions for this was ~£57 and it took in total over 30 hours (I lost track a bit and some bits were very speedy (joining main pattern pieces together as I had already made a toile) and others long, (2 hours to cover buttons as I was learning as I went along). But, I am really very pleased with the result and have had very positive comments and trying on from friends. So Hurray!!!!!

When Suze and I were working out the list of what we were going to do, we put 1 jacket or coat on the list and both made a similar face of ” that will have to wait until later on in the year when we are up to it”, oddly enough, we have both made coats / jackets (I am told the velvet jacket is coming along) near the beginning. I like this so much, I may make a heavier coat later in the year too.

Sarah

I’m BACK!

I’m BACK!

Hello my lovelies!

After a little unplanned blogging hiatus, I am back!  There have been illnesses, hospitals, job interviews, you name it.  But the sewing hasn’t stopped, just my ability to photograph and write about it.  So, I’ll be doing a few catch up posts over the next week or so before getting back into the swing of things.

Sarah very gently pointed out today that perhaps I might like to make my sewing life a little easier on myself for a wee while.  I’ve been going through a little pocket of working with SPAWN OF THE DEVIL FABRICS!  So I am planning a few easier projects for the weeks to come.  I am currently perfecting a high-ish waisted pencil skirt pattern which should come together quite quickly in some nice, stable, non-slippy cotton sateen.

In the meantime, what have I been up to?  Work on my velvet jacket has been coming along slowly.  The velvet has proved easy to work with, providing it is interfaced.  Uninterfaced velvet, it transpires, stretches like an elastic band when presented with a sewing machine.  It also turns out that unless the seams are poker straight they won’t lie flat when pressed. There has been one hell of a lot of hand basting going on round these parts.  I won’t ruin the surprise of the final jacket (midnight blue velvet with a bronze lining and vintage plum buttons), but here is a sneaky peek of the inside:

And the oodles of hand blanket stitch holding most of the internal seams down:

To tell the truth, I am totally in love with this jacket, and can’t wait for it to be finished.  I’m sure it will be worth all the work.  Top interfacing tips and other war stories to follow in the completed item post ASAP.  Watch this space…

Sarah got a couple of snaps in my scampering round the office in my Sorbetto top today, so a post about that to follow!

Suze x

BUTTONS, hours of fun!!!!!

BUTTONS, hours of fun!!!!!

Hi, back again!

So last night I made buttons, yes, the sewing insanity has struck, I am posting about buttons.

The coat I am working on needs several buttons, I have decided to buy buttons and cover these. It was a bit (read very very) fiddly to do and required a large amount of patience.

So, I started out with large and small buttons, which you get in 2 parts; the shiny front to be covered and a  back piece to clip on.

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I had even bought a gadget to help, the theory being you put the fabric and front part in, place the back on press down and it clips together, there are small “teeth” sticking out sharp edges on the back of the front piece which the fabric grips too. However, the large buttons I had bought were too big to use this on, so it was all done by hand, which was a bit painful shoving the fabric onto the teeth.

The part I found fiddly was cutting the fabric large enough to cover the button and have enough to grip the fabric and overlap, but not so much that the dish of the back was full, before clipping the back on.

The other thing I had to consider was the fabric placement. The first ones I made in the orange fabric (lining, slippy and frays like nothing I’ve ever seen), I didn’t cut it so they design was showing, I then had to prise the back off and re do.

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The finished effect is one I’m very happy with and I will certainly consider covering buttons again.

Sarah xxx

I have been a very busy bee

I have been a very busy bee

Hi,

Apologies for the break between posts. I have been busy sewing and not actually managing to blog, however, I will hopefully make amends for this with a long(ish) catch-up post.

So, you may recall: It was half term, I couldn’t get any sewing done so planned a knitting project. I am an experienced knitter, a colleague at work had admired some gloves I had knitted, I offered to knit a pair, (dusts hands), job done and I just really struggled with this. We had visitors for the week and I just really failed to get on with the knitting. I did had a lovely time with my mum and I night out with my husband. So, after the green dress was finished, I went back to the knitting and viola, they are done.

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The pattern was free from Ravelry. I had recently been on a knitting course “Finishing Techniques” with the lovely Julia and put most of the information (knitting in ends as you go, darning on right side, different cast on methods and darning in ends) into practice here to give a nicely finished glove. I am very pleased with how the fingers look on the finished project as this has previously been a bit scrappy.

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The recipient was very pleased and their colleague is now looking for a pair (sewing insanity anyone?), and the production of some pure wool gloves has brought spring forth too. Cost was £8.50 (2 balls Rowan pure wool) and timer taken was probably 17 hours.

 

I am mum to 2 lovely girls, the little one was 5, she has inherited many toys, bikes etc. from the older one, so when it comes to birthdays, she doesn‘t get lots of “stuff”. We are all fine with this. So, “what would you like for your birthday darling?” “you to make me a pink dress Mummy”, (I am hoping the pink phase doesn’t last too much longer).

As part of her birthday, I took her to the fabric shop and she picked fabric (we had previously chosen a pattern), and and you can see below was very pleased when I finished it this morning (started it last night, making time 6 hours).

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The bits which I struggled with on this were the collar, I used too stiff interfacing and had to top stitch the collar down. Sewing the band round the middle was a labour of love, I had to go very slowly and unpick several times.

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However, she really loves it and was very very happy. I think she is already planning her next dress.

 

Finally: I have been working on a an idea for a spring coat for some time. There is a lovely pattern in the Sew Serendipity book I have sued before and I made a toile of the design back in February. I have taken the plunge and started this. I am trying to concentrate on the overall finish and details, but the plan is a coat in green wool with some very lovely lining and finishing touches. This project has been playing in mind fro some time, in that I even have a swatch on my desk at work to see how it looks, we did call this sewing insanity. and will involve; working with fabric that frays every time you even think about it, let alone work with it, (I can see lots of stay stitching in  my future), covering buttons, fine finishing possibly involving hand stitching.

So, I have started this and am likely to take my time over this and may do other projects in between, but will blog with updates as I get there.

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Back to the subject of being a busy bee. In addition to the above, my eldest daughter has shown some interest of sewing (hurray!) and I have been helping her. She does most of the making herself with a bit of guidance from me (although I do sew the fiddly bits), she uses the sewing machine herself and is very good. She got a Layer Cake fabric pack for her birthday and has so far made a patchwork pillow case and has made some bunting (cutting shapes out, not a kit!). I think she is angling for a slot on the Known Associates page.

The other thing which is happening is that as the sewing kit is always “out”, the amount of running repairs and alterations has increased. “mum, can you make this skirt a bit tighter?” “can you sew this button back on?”, “the Velcro has come loose on my cycling gloves? could you just……?”

On another topic, there was an interesting piece in the Guardian this week about knitting and sewing and it’s replacement for shopping lust. http://www.guardian.co.uk/commentisfree/2012/feb/22/knitting-fashion-lust . These types of pieces are not new and it’s always interesting to read the writers point of view. The article and it’s “below the line” replies made me think, (after the usual flicker of annoyance from posters had passed) about my own reason for sewing, so in no particular order;

1. Nothing you buy in the shops fits. We live in a world of “one size fits none”, I have a large bust, so clothes bought which fit the bust are huge on the shoulders. Trousers which fit my post children tummy have a gape at the back my family could pack their holiday clothes into, nice. Making clothes means I can adjust to fit my shape better.

2. Money versus quality. Hmm, a tricky one this, Buying cheap clothes means they are either; badly made, don’t last, fall apart after X washes (where X is less than 10), without having any moral arguments about how they are made. Better quality clothes which don’t fall apart and last some time are *much* more expensive, so having made the decision that I don’t want to wear badly fitting clothes which fall apart, actually making clothes is good value.

3. I just really like it. The best reason after all, I have a hobby which I spend my time on and have something to show at the end of it, a win-win situation. There are days when the sewing insanity sets in (see above), but if you’re going to do something, best “fall right in” and embrace it.

So, back to the coat for me. I will try to blog more as I go along as I think there will be several new things I undertake (button covering and hand stitching).

Sarah

xxxx

Designs and new techniques, good grief

Designs and new techniques, good grief

So, this is what Fun with Sewing & Maths is about for me. The push for me to think beyond following a pattern and adding my own touches to it.

 

 

 

 

 

 

This is repeat of the pattern used for project 5 (slippy fabric mutter mutter), I made the dress length and increased the amount of gathers on the sleeve. The fabric was from stash and was originally purchased at the rather lovely www.eternalmaker.com. When made it was a bit of a vast expanse of green as it was being made up. My sister-in-law made a comment about some nice ribbon, which I seized on and have added this at the empire line and sleeves.

 

 

 

 

 

This required a large amount of small top stitching and I am very pleased with my the final effect and my increased ability with the sewing machine.

The dress still lacked a certain something,so after much debate with brooches and bows, I decided to to add some appliqué in the form of a leaf. I decided against a loose addition as it needs to survive the laundry and being washed etc.

I had never undertaken appliqué before, so I had a practice to find the correct stitch and having tacked the ribbon into place to within an inch of it’s life, stitched the ribbon into place,. I am really happy with the overall effect and am already thinking about a larger appliqué project.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

So overall a success and I really enjoyed wearing this.

PPG was £10 per metre for fabric (2.8 metres), lining was approx £3.50, ribbon and threads £6.23 total = £37.73. This took approx 7 hours to complete.

Other news;

My knitting last week didn’t really take off. This is somewhat surprising giving my history as a knitter. I shall persevere.

Suze is still here and sewing, some technical difficulties have caused a hiatus in blogging, but she has finished some lovely things……

Sarah

xxxxx